Heading up the coast and into this area is always a challenge and a gamble. From the sheer desolated landscape to the lack of cell service, it is always a good time getting away from the realities of the world. Due to the fact that this was only weeks after we had been able to get back in the ocean it seemed like the right thing to do. We packed the car up on the Monday morning and headed up the coast in search of what might be the best chart I had seen in a while. Although there would be waves every day, there were a few days where the potential for greatness was highly possible.
We arrived on dark to be greeted by a bunch of cars on the point. It was expected but for sure the most people I had seen up there. We pitched the tents and got the fire started to get the first night’s dinner going. It was so good to be able to completely disconnect from reality and just be up there in this desert-like farmlands. Day 1 had a very slow start. We seemed to be stuck in some sort of bubble where the wind would just not be able to push through and really make the waves turn on.
Mid-morning and the bubble had popped, wind had started to blow and the waves were beginning to really turn on. I was in the water from early and happy to get a couple of fun barrels and then the real catalyst of my trip with an air forward. This is because I hadn’t been riding for so long and this was the best move I had done in ages, setting the tone for the rest of the trip. I went in to eat some breakfast and recharge before my second session.
The next time I was in the water, I found a left down the beach that was just what I wanted. I paddled over and got into a couple of nice looking waves. It was all fun and games until I pulled into a barrel and whilst wrestling with the foam ball, I was pushed straight where the lip landed on my legs ripping one of my fins off.
In this moment I was so sure it would pop up next to me and I would be able to keep surfing. Unfortunately that was not the case and I was left with only one fin. I was going to head in to grab my other pair before I saw an insane wave lining up and heading straight for me. There were some doubts as to what I could do on the wave with only one fin. I turned and paddled into one of my best rights of the trip. Even with one fin I was able to bottom turn, adjust my line and hit the section launching an air reverse into the whitewater and rode out…
I went into the beach, ran up and grabbed my other set of fins, now accompanied by some tethers, and I was back in. I ended up riding the left down the beach and getting a fair amount of waves before I decided to call it a day and head up for a relaxing afternoon. The line-up was still full of guys scoring some insane rides.
I was blown away by how good the conditions had got but feeling so tired at the same time. This was the most I had ridden my board in the past 3 months and two 2 hour sessions had made me feel exhausted. The thoughts of some good waves the next day allowed me to put my feet up and sit around the fire preparing for the evening feed.
Day 2 was supposed to be one of the better days. Waking up in the morning to another bubble like situation put a bit of a dampener on the situation. However I went into the water with some dropknee on the mind. I was able to lock into two of my best DK waves that I was able to get that entire trip.
I linked up with Kyle Cabano in the water and got some epic shots making the day that much better and worth it. With limited swell around we decided that an explore of the area would go down well before coming back to the camp and settling down for the evening.
Day 3 and all the swell had died off completely. We were left in desert like conditions, hot as hell and in need of some cooling off. We set up a big sheltered area and sat down to relax before starting a fire to cook up some food. Even though the conditions were not pristine for riding waves, we headed out and flopped around before coming in once again to sit and watch dolphins playing in the waves. It was unreal to think at the time that the following day was going to be a huge swell coming up the coast.
The final day was upon us and the beach really showed its power. There were some solid sets coming through and the wind had finally started to blow how we wanted it to. The offshore winds blew huge rooster tails off the back of the waves. After a quick morning coffee I donned my wetsuit, grabbed my fins and headed out with Wilder Schultz to be the first ones in the line-up.
As I got to the back a wave with a crazy long wall popped out of nowhere and I was in such a good spot. I turned and started to paddle into it. The line I took was to generate as much speed as I could and trimming down the line I knew I would need it all. As I entered in the barrel the wind up the face seemed to push me back allowing me to slide into it and keep traveling. I flew through the sections, over foam and then finally slide out of the end of this barrel to pull off the back and paddle back out.
The morning continued to produce some crazy moments with everybody getting at least a small taste of what this powerful break can produce. After about 2 hours in the water I called it a day and headed back to the camp to start packing up all the gear. Tent got put away, mattress rolled up and we tied down all our gear and headed home. 4 days up in that part of the world can really take a lot out of you. Waking up to some good waves and getting barrelled on the final day made the trip very worthwhile.
Thanks to everyone who made the trip such an epic time and all the boys for the moments in and out the water. I was stoked to be able to get out of the “new normal” and back doing what we love, chasing waves. I am hoping for many more of these to come in the not so distant future.