Being given the go ahead by SA Bodyboarding Chair, I decided that it was time I got in the water.
Getting into the water on my first day back I couldn’t help but feel a bit strange. The water wasn’t as cold as I remembered and the less than favourable conditions meant I would be riding 2-3ft waves on my first day back after 77 days out the ocean.
I entered the water and immediately fell backward into the ocean as it consumed me with a gigantic hugging feeling.
I was back. Back in my happy place. Back where I really wanted to be.
I got on my board and paddled to the back where I waited for my first wave. It surprised me as to how easy it was being back on my boogie. Kind of like how one would ride a bike after being off it for so long, rusty at the start but effortless once you get going.
The first few waves were feeling very strange. I miss judged the steepness on the first one falling off the back and ended up trying again on wave two with no success. As I started to feel a bit better in the water, the sun poked its head over the mountains illuminating the water and showing the beauty of the beach I love so much. Crystal clear water with no wind and fun but small waves. What more could I ask for…
The session was slow at the start but once I felt in the zone I got a number of good waves under my belt. I ended up getting a few backflips, some reverses and even a little barrel or two. Just enough of a good time before the wind came up and it was all over. The wind swung around the mountain coming from the wrong direction and this to me was a sign to get out. Along with the fact I was so tired for the constant paddling out after each wave I had ridden.
I called the session after about 2 hours in the water. I have become custom to sitting in the water for 3/4 hours if not more on regular occasions. But after these 70+ days out of the water, i felt tired and drained from paddling around in some smaller waves. Even though that was the case my batteries had been recharged and I was feeling a lot better about my situation. The pure joy that I get just from simply dunking myself in the water, letting myself be immersed in salty blue liquid, is indescribable. It feels as if I have been reset. Ready to tackle the challenges of my everyday life and push my limits again. One thing is for sure, the fitness needs to come back to where it was before the lockdown started and the hope to be getting in the water for longer periods of time.
Until the next one, here is a video I captured from the full day of my first day back.